Flights
Nairobi is one of Africa's principal hubs, with direct flights from Europe, the Gulf, Asia and across the continent — eight to nine hours from Europe. Mombasa takes seasonal direct charters. Domestic flights to the Masai Mara, Lamu and the coast are frequent, small and expensive relative to distance, but they save days of road travel.
When to come
Two rainy seasons: the long rains from March to May and the short rains in November and December. The best game-viewing is in the dry months, June to October and January to February. The great migration reaches the Masai Mara roughly between July and October, with river crossings the highlight — and prices at their peak.
Nairobi sits at seventeen hundred metres, which makes it pleasantly cool all year; the coast is hot and humid throughout.
Getting around
The standard gauge railway between Nairobi and Mombasa is modern, comfortable and cheap, and has transformed that journey. Matatus — shared minibuses — are the everyday transport and an experience; long-distance coaches are reasonable. A four-wheel drive with a driver is the normal way to do a safari circuit. Avoid night driving.
Orders of magnitude
| Return flight from Europe | €550 to €1,000 |
|---|---|
| Mid-range hotel night | $60 to $150 |
| Safari lodge, full board | $150 to $600 per person per night |
| Park entry fee | $50 to $200 per day depending on the reserve and season |
What holds everywhere
- Insurance covering medical costs and repatriation stops being optional as soon as local healthcare is limited. Check it actually covers the destination: many policies exclude areas under adverse travel advice.
- Carry cash. In much of the world cards work in the big cities and nowhere else. Check the ATM situation and your bank's charges before leaving.
- Leave margin on connections. A tight transfer on a thinly served route is expensive: the next flight may be tomorrow, or in three days.
- The real budget runs over two years, not one trip: repeated flights, paperwork, translations, legalisations, any support sent. It is always underestimated.